Jim Whittaker is interviewed for the fiftieth Anniversary Celebration of the First American Ascent of Mount Everest in Berkeley, Calif., Feb. 22, 2013.
Jeff Chiu/AP
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Jeff Chiu/AP
SEATTLE — The celebrated mountaineer Jim Whittaker, the primary American to summit Mount Everest, has died. He was 97.
Whittaker, who additionally served as the primary full-time worker of the out of doors retailer REI and later as its president and CEO, died Tuesday at his residence in Port Townsend, Washington, in line with a press release from his household.
“Whether or not at residence, within the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share journey, pleasure, and optimism with these round him,” stated the assertion, which was emailed by Leif Whittaker, considered one of his sons. “His heat, humility, and perception within the energy of nature to deliver individuals collectively left a permanent legacy of look after our planet and for each other.”
Whittaker’s 1963 ascent of Everest alongside Nawang Gombu got here 10 years after the pioneering climb of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The feat helped spawn curiosity — and an trade — in mountaineering within the U.S., and it made the once-shy, rangy climber an instantaneous superstar. He was featured on journal covers and in demand for public appearances.
Whittaker had been working for REI since 1955, when he was employed by the co-op’s co-founder, Lloyd Anderson. The corporate’s reputation surged after Whittaker’s Everest climb, and Whittaker went on to steer the enterprise from 1971 to 1979. Its membership grew from practically 250,000 to greater than 900,000 throughout his tenure, REI famous in a press release Wednesday.
Robert F. Kennedy, left, stands atop Mt. Kennedy after inserting a black flag in memorial to his late brother, President John F. Kennedy, subsequent to, from left, Jim Whittaker, William Allard, and George Senner, March 24, 1965, in Yukon, Canada.
Doug Wilson/AP
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Doug Wilson/AP
The co-op credited his congressional testimony and different efforts with serving to to ascertain North Cascades Nationwide Park and the Pasayten Wilderness in Washington, in addition to and Redwood Nationwide Park in California.
“Lengthy earlier than out of doors advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his management — to defending the locations we love, reminding us that wild locations endure provided that we select to look after them,” the assertion stated.
Whittaker’s superstar additionally introduced him into the orbit of the Kennedy clan, and he grew to become a detailed pal of Robert Kennedy, with whom he climbed a 14,000-foot (4,267 meters) Canadian peak. The height was later named Mount Kennedy after the presidential contender’s homicide in 1968.
Whittaker was at Kennedy’s bedside when he died and was devastated by the assassination.
Whittaker grew up in Seattle and started climbing together with his twin brother Lou Whittaker within the Forties with the Boy Scouts. At 16, they summited 7,965-foot (2,428-meter) Mount Olympus, the very best peak within the Olympic Mountains west of Seattle, Jim Whittaker recounted in his memoir, “A Life on the Edge.” Once they reached the city of Port Angeles on their approach residence, they discovered vehicles honking and other people celebrating: World Struggle II had ended.
Jim Whittaker as soon as mirrored that the sweetness and hazard of his sport sharpened the senses: “While you reside on the sting, you possibly can see a bit of farther,” he as soon as mirrored.
His achievements on the distant, snowy slopes of Mount Everest and close by K2, the world’s second-tallest peak, assured him a distinct segment within the report books. He was shocked when Lou determined to skip the 1963 Everest expedition in favor of opening a sporting items retailer in Tacoma.
However Lou Whittaker wrote in his personal guide, “Lou Whittaker: Memoirs of a Mountain Information,” that he nonetheless acquired to share in a few of his twin’s glory by filling in when Jim acquired uninterested in attending parades or different occasions in his honor.
“Solely our households and closest mates ever knew the distinction,” he wrote.
Lou Whittaker died in 2024 at age 95.
Lou Whittaker, left, and his brother Jim Whittaker, proper, pose for a portrait at Jim’s home, in 1980, in Seattle.
Ann E. Yow/AP/The Seattle Instances
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Ann E. Yow/AP/The Seattle Instances
Jim Whittaker led many further climbs, together with the 1990 Mount Everest Worldwide Peace Climb, which introduced collectively climbers from the U.S., the Soviet Union and China “to display what could possibly be completed via cooperation and goodwill,” the household assertion stated.
“Jim was a lifelong advocate for peace and believed deeply within the potential of shared challenges within the pure world to unite individuals throughout borders and ideologies,” it stated.
Whittaker himself stated considered one of his proudest moments got here in 1981, when he led 10 handicapped climbers up 14,410-foot Mount Rainier. For them, he stated later, “that was Mount Everest.”
Whittaker scaled Mount Rainier greater than 100 instances however didn’t take its acquainted flanks as a right. The caprices of the climate, even on a relatively modest mountain, “can flip climber right into a newbie” in a matter of hours, he as soon as famous.
Former Washington Gov. Jay Inslee known as Whittaker’s legacy “simply as spectacular, and simply as lasting, as Mount Rainier itself.”
“He pulled many a climber up the height,” Inslee wrote in a social media put up Wednesday. “He did the identical for all our spirits. He nonetheless does.”
After years of danger on the world’s most dizzying pinnacles, Whittaker stated in a 1980 interview that he hoped to “die in my sleep with the tv on.”
He’s survived by his spouse of 52 years, Dianne Roberts; sons Bob, Joss and Leif Whittaker; three grandchildren; and one great-grandchild.
